Tuesday 20 May 2008

Torres del Awesome




Punta Arenas lookout at sunrise (8:35am)
- After a 4 hour delay in the Santiago airport due to fog, we arrived later than expected in Punta Arenas. As the sun sets around 4:30 at the end of the world, we had little time to explore before heading to Puerto Natales, the Gateway to Torres del Paine National Park. We did however, manage to make it to the city lookout for sunrise which showed us the true colours of the city. Each building really is a differenct colour. The view of the Magellan strait and Tierra del Fuego on the horizon is enough to stop one in their tracks, but we had a bus to catch....
A brief stop in Puerto Natales linked us up with some fellow trekkers, thus a Brit, a Welshman, and an American later, we were on our way into the park. The 18km hike in showed us the epitome of Torres weather. In a 5 hour span we experienced first incredible wind, then a downpour of rain, followed by snow, sleet, some ice like things, and then a bit more rain. The last hour the sun graced us with its presence and we were finally able to see the mountains...or so we thought. We arrived at the only open Refugio in winter to find the most friendly, patient, and bored Chileans we have met this far. Cristian and Javier quickly became our friends finding most of their daily entertainment in our attempt at Spanish, not to mention the flailing run and giggles that could be heard from us as we ran to snap pictures of the Guanaco in our backyard. By the end of the first night there we had sleepingbags for free, and endless laughter as we taught them our favourite card games in mediocre broken spanish.

Glacier Grey in Torres Del Paine National Park -- Day 2



On the second day we set out with gorp in hand to find the Glacier Grey. The 22km hike had us in a bit of a sweat, but the 360 view of stunning mountains, lakes, and icebergs kept our spirits high. Unbeknowst to us, icebergs and glaciers are the definition of glowing blue. True beauties. Some of trek was difficult with rocky ups and down, and the distractions of beautiful mountains sometimes allows for a miss in one's step. Liza, in true fashion, took a couple spills, but all is well and no blood was shed. The nicest part about this day was the realization that we were entirely alone out there - except for the Owl and Jack Rabbit that crossed our path. Cristian and Javier informed us that in the summer months, there are over 1,000 hikers in the park on a daily basis. Now?... there were 2. Arriving back at the refugio, we braved the showers. It's not that they were dirty, but the glacier water is a little bit cold. We remained a bit dirty. We then met by two smiling faces, wine and bistek, a warm fire, and some friendly conversation.

Valley of Frances - Day 3

As the weather in the park is often tempermental, the fact that our trek into the valley of Frances was full of blue skies and sunshine was truly a gift. The 8 km path was less strenuous than the previous day, allowing us to bask in the beauty around us. The waterfalls, the winding paths, the visible peaks, the somewhat sketchy suspension bridge, and the snow-covered ground made for an experience we will never forget. Kelsey now embraces 'The Frances' in her.
As the hike turned more into mountain climbing, we heard a tremendous boom. Helicopter? Thunder - on an entirely clear day? No... Kelsey, that's an avalanche. We were on our way down the mountain and managed to witness one of the most incredible acts of nature. The snow broke from the top of a peak and thundered down the mountain side - thankfully the one opposite from us. As we returned to the refigio we told our new friends what we saw, and apparently we are very lucky to have seen such a thing. As we discussed our day back in our rooms, Cristian and Javier's impatient voices could be heard at the end of the hall. `Chicas! NiƱas! Cafe? Te? Ven por jugar cartas ahora?'
The trek out us with nothing to be desired. Beauty in it's purest form - untouched wilderness.
Oh yeah, we also made record time. 18km hike in 4 hours. yeaaaaah!!! We're also exhausted, but wouldn't trade this for anything.

We now await the arrival of Vianna and the adventures to come in our teaching placement - Coquimbo!!!

- Liza and Kelsey

6 comments:

Anonymous said...

Who took those amazing photos??? WOW they could be in the National Geographic travel magazine! Keep posting your adventures...we are hooked:)

Love, Jennifer/Mum

Anonymous said...

Hi Liza and Kelsey : Those are truly spectacular mountains, nice pics! It looks cold ... almost as cold as it was here on May 24 weekend ... we had snow up north ... mom thinks she saw some penguins ... they looked alot like seagulls to me!
Keep posting,
love pops xoxo

Anonymous said...

Hey Liza and Kelsey. update: I just found your commentary that goes with the pic's, it's on a different page (for other technopeasants like me, you need to click on the "original post" link).
Very impressive hiking, and writing, nice to hear you hooked up with some entertaining company.

Wish we were there

xoxo dad

Anonymous said...

amaaaazing!
very jealous!!
the pictures are really great, who's taking them?
char

Jenna said...

babies,

i am so jealous it is burning in my soul. your pictures and words are amazing. hope all is well on the road and be careful with those spanish boys. they can be sneaky!!!
XO love jenna

Anonymous said...

...poor Spanish Su Tia Mim

Museo de Arte Precolombino

Museo de Arte Precolombino

Summit of San Cristobal

Summit of San Cristobal

Alpaca Market

Alpaca Market